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For many of us who’ve spent time living below the Mason-Dixon line, the chicken-and-biscuit chain Bojangles’ symbolizes a lot of what’s great and also awful about the South. The stores’ ubiquity, especially in North and South Carolina, demonstrate how easy it’s been to transform the delicious cuisine of a region that’s long been fiercely proud of its food into bastardized, processed, unhealthy fast-food simulacra. It’s partly because of places like Bojangles’ that the South struggles with obesity so.